Hiking Acatenango in Guatemala: what it’s really like
The climb to base camp, the extra hike towards Volcán de Fuego, the cold, and whether it was worth it. My honest account of Guatemala’s most famous hike.
What a surreal experience. Even now, it still doesn’t fully feel real that I actually stood there watching something I’d seen in photos for so many years.
The hike in numbers
- Start: around 2,400 m above sea level
- Base camp: roughly 3,600 m, after around 7 km uphill
- Volcán de Fuego: around 3,763 m
- My timings: left Antigua at 6:30 am, started hiking around 9, reached camp around 3 pm
The climb to base camp
We left Antigua at 6:30 am, stopped for breakfast and started the trek around 9. The hike begins at around 2,400 m above sea level, which already feels high.
From there, it was around 7 km uphill to Acatenango base camp, at roughly 3,600 m. Honestly, the altitude wasn’t even the hardest part for me. It was the heat, and carrying so much weight from all the water we needed for the hike (not to mention that I went in shoes with zero grip, and the trail was very slippery).
The extra hike towards Fuego
We arrived at camp around 3 pm, exhausted. Next came the extra hike towards Volcán de Fuego, which sits at around 3,763 m, fuelled by adrenaline. It’s a steep descent down loose volcanic rock, knowing every step down will have to be climbed back up later, followed by a brutal incline towards Fuego.
We made it… only for the volcano to be completely covered by clouds. Not going to lie, it was disappointing.
Then came the cold
I genuinely don’t think photos can explain how freezing it is up there. The wind was insane. By the time we were hiking back in complete darkness, I felt pretty demotivated, and I genuinely questioned whether the extra hike was worth it.
But then, on the way back, the clouds finally shifted, and suddenly we could see Fuego erupting in the distance. A sight I’ll never forget, and one photos can’t do justice.
Was the extra hike worth it?
Honestly? I still don’t fully know. I imagine seeing an eruption up close makes the whole thing worth it, but there’s always the risk you won’t see Fuego at all, and part of me thinks watching from base camp is the smarter option.
What I’d do differently
- Wear shoes with real grip. The trail is steep and slippery.
- Plan for the water weight. Carrying it was harder for me than the altitude.
- Pack for freezing wind. It gets far colder at the top than you’d expect from the heat at the start.
It was exhausting, freezing, dirty, chaotic, and one of the most incredible experiences of my life. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.
I did the hike from Antigua, where I spent a month. If you’re planning a bigger trip, here are the experiences I’d pay for again in South America.
